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The Italian jeweler Buccellati applied the velvety finish that distinguishes its fine gold work to a series of silver zodiac pieces. March 21 – April 19 Buccellati sterling-silver Aries ring, 20th century “It is a solid heavy piece, and you can feel the hours and weeks and the technique that went into making it,” says Park. This rare zodiac pendant was designed by Edmond Henri Becker, one of the super-talents who worked for Boucheron during the early years of the 20th century. Modeled on ancient coins, they have zodiac signs on the front and the signs’ dates in Roman numerals on the back.įebruary 19 – March 20 Gold Pisces pendant, 1910s January 20 – February 1 Van Cleef & Arpels gold Aquarius pendant, 1970sĪmong vintage astrological jewels, some of the most coveted and hard to find today are the Van Cleef & Arpels round zodiac pendants made during the 1970s. He also made bold gold astrological designs and gigantic gold pendants bearing zodiac glyphs. Beginning in the 1960s, he created enameled animal figures with gems for eyes and accenting other body parts.
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See below for our favorite zodiac picks.ĭecember 22 – January 20 David Webb enamel, ruby and diamond brooch, 1980sĪmerican designer David Webb made lots of jewelry inspired by the zodiac, including his signature daytime jewels. One workaround that has been successful is to create pieces that feature astrological glyphs instead of figures or that incorporate all the zodiac symbols and have a way for the jewels’ owners to mark theirs. In contrast, crafting figure signs, like Aquarius and Virgo, into attractive jewels is challenging. In fact, almost any animal sign translates well into jewelry. Pisces, Leo and Cancer generally inspire the most stunning designs. “Zodiacs are hard to design, because the subject is not always beautiful,” says Amie Park, of Alice Kwartler Antiques. “It makes you feel connected to yourself and to a specific, if vast, earthly community.”įinding a great vintage piece representing a particular sign, however, can be a real treasure hunt.
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“Wearing one’s sign is like wearing an amulet, a talisman, a personal thing,” says Mahnaz Ispahani Bartos, of the Mahnaz Collection. Why is the zodiac coming back into fashion? The answer may simply be that the stars are aligned: In uncertain times like these, people wear jewelry as a form of comfort. These vintage pieces are currently experiencing a resurgence in popularity. and Van Cleef & Arpels - created daytime gold jewelry incorporating zodiac symbols.Īlthough it reached its fashionable height during the 1970s, the zodiac trend began in the 1960s and is reflected throughout the latter part of the 20th century in fine jewelry ranging from over-the-top brooches and gigantic gold pendants to minimalist silver rings. The astrological fascination was prevalent enough that the most esteemed jewelry labels in Paris and New York - including Cartier, Tiffany & Co. “What’s your sign?” was not just a notorious pickup line during the period but a serious question, asked by people who felt passionately about horoscopes.
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Cartier ruby and gold zodiac link charm bracelet, 1970ĭuring the disco days of the 1970s, the zodiac was as much a part of popular culture as the Watergate scandal, Saturday Night Fever and Halston’s ultrasuede wrap dresses.
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