Parts are available from Thunderbird Ranch and you can email me right here. There is also a photo of the Lower Shift Tube Busing and the Upper Insulator on the picture page above. Most of the rest of this is pretty straight forward.
You will need a snap ring pliers or be able to figure out a way to remove the snap ring holding the bearing onto the shaft. Follow them down and remove the screws holding this harness to the column, then work the bundle up into the column a bit until you can manuever the switch off of the shaft and off to the side. Just look under the dash where the bundle of wires comes out of the column. You can gain enough slack in the wires to move the switch off to the side. You need not remove the signal light switch to replace the insulator. These are located just under the signal light switch. By referring to the picture (click) you will be able to see that there is a bearing (which seldom ever goes bad, just clean and relube it) and a plastic or rubber insulator around it. When this one is bad you may experience the ability to move the steering wheel up and down, the steering wheel may rub on the signal light collar on the column or you may feel a roughness when turning the steering wheel and this roughness you feel will seem to be right in the steering wheel. The other item is the Insulator around the upper bearing in the column. The shaft should be held in place at all times by the fact that it is solidly mounted to the steering sector by the rubber coupler. It should also be noted that the Nylon Centering Cone at the bottom of the steering shaft does no more than keep the dirt out of the bottom of the column and serve as a cushion if the column or sector move enough to let the shaft bump against the side of the tube. So maybe one doesn't have to remove the column to replace this bugger after all. Guess what? Its still there after 7 years and working fine.
I cut one of the bushings at what would be the bottom, snapped it over the shift tube and pushed it into place. By looking at it, I could see that the column would have to come out to do the job properly. I have a '64 Bird and when I was getting it ready for the road in 1991, I found I had a bad bushing. John, I wanted to let you know about my experience with steering column bushings and see what you thought.
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(If you do not have one, refer to the pictures on this site or you can order a shop manual by sending me an email). If you have a shop manual you can refer to that. In order to replace the bushing you need to remove the steering column from the car and disassembled. If the shift lever fix doesn't solve most of your troubles then it is time to open the hood and find the shif tube and check to see if the bushing is bad. The lever will not register correctly as to what gear you are in and you will also have trouble getting the car into park and low. If this is bad or gone you will have trouble trying to shift your car. One is the Nylon bushing at the lower end of the shift tube. There are a couple items in your steering column that can cause trouble. Put the lever back in and your problem should be nearly all solved. Take this to a welding shop and have them weld it up and grind it down so that it matches the rest of the area near it.
You will see that there is a one eighth inch notch worn into the flat part of the lever. You can repair this easily by pounding out the roll pin that holds the shift lever into the collar on the steering column and pulling out the shift lever. If you are having trouble keeping your shift lever in the proper postion and it won't stay in park, the problem, more than likely is that the shift lever itself has a notch worn into it down on the end inside the steering column. Rebuilding the seat foam in the 1958-60 Birdsħ7-79 Strut rod bushing washer installation Headliner Replacement in Town Landau and Town Coupeįoamy Steering Fluid / Growling Noise / Air in System Shift Lever Fix-It for all Thunderbirds from '58 thru 1966
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